The Cape Ann 500

In an interview with Absolutepunk.net (interview here), Philip Jamieson of one of my favorite bands, Caspian, said the following when asked about what inspires him:

"In terms of personal inspiration, there's a road here in the North Shore that winds along the Atlantic ocean. Folks around here call it the "Cape Ann 500." Takes an hour and a half or so to drive from bottom to top (Beverly to Rockport). Back in the day, when music was developing itself as the most powerful thing in my life, I'd drive along that road at 3am blasting records all the time. All kinds of stuff from Radiohead to Boards of Canada to Sigur Ros to Sun Kil Moon to you name it. You're out there when everyone else is asleep and you feel like you own these beautiful surroundings. It's a very personal feeling of ownership and awareness that I haven't really experienced with anything else since."


As someone who waits for the perfect night, the perfect mood, or even a specific season to kick in before listening to albums (I owned Caspian's last album for a solid month before I listened to it, because I wanted to hear it on a night-settling-in-on-the-way-back-from-a-long-bikeride-at-Willowdale night), I immediately wanted to go on this drive. From being a fanboy for years, I've come to know Caspian, and sent Phil a message asking about the Cape Ann 500. He told me some notable stops and the basic route, which is basically Route 127 north, with a few turns to stay along the ocean as best you can. So, I awoke on my friend's futon the day after Shawn's Uno's fest, and went for it.

It was an ugly day, but I'd been putting this drive off all summer, and since I live over an hour from it, I just decided that sure, my pictures won't be as pretty as they could be, but screw it, I'm going for the drive.

I had driven through the downtown, coastline part of Beverly the week before and had been to Singing Beach, so I drove straight to Manchester (which is a beautiful area), and then Magnolia, to go to Sea Lawn, which is part of Coolidge Reservation. (It's right off 127 and has a small parking lot for those interested). Technically, it's called Ocean Lawn, but since there's a Caspian song named after it called Sea Lawn (and it sounds better), I'm sticking with that name.
I walked probably a half mile along a path and followed signs through very private and VERY rich property to get there, and it was pretty beautiful. It was much more lawn-y than I pictured it. I had figured it would be more gross and marshy, but nope- a big, nice lawn right by the ocean. It would be a sweet place to throw the B or take a special lady.

ocean + lawn= ocean lawn

I'd take that special lady here

come on

bird friends

This is one of those rich people's houses. Look at that thing!

Next to Sea Lawn is Magnolia Beach, which, as far as I'm concerned, is the worst beach ever.

Why would you ever want to go to a beach and not swim?!

On the way out, I kept hearing some awful sound- like music being blared out of someone's house. As I got closer, it sounded like someone practicing some sort of horn. But I was in the middle of the woods, what the hell could it be?

Turns out, it was this guy, practicing some sort of horn in short shorts. He completely ignored me when I walked by and was talking to himself, going over the arrangement. Good stuff. 

I got back on 127, and drove north through Magnolia and into Gloucester. There's a nice park there called Stage Fort Rock, where there is... well, a stage and a giant rock.

Gloucester was a mess. I had only been here a few times before and didn't realize just how crowded and tight it is. There were a billion people out, and I even got to hear 2 old ladies yelling at each other and threatening to fight. However, there are parts of Gloucester that are real nice if you like boats and docks and ports and all that jazz. I've never been around this stuff much, but my Grandfather had a boat and took us out on the ocean a few times to fish when I was like 8, so naturally I thought of him. 

The best photo I took here looked as good as it did because I cheated with Instagram. But I love this photo. 

I drove all around on unbelievably tight and winding streets. Every street was a one way, and every section where there weren't supposed to be cars, there were. I drove up the coast a ways to Bass Rocks, where Phil said to go. I was disappointed here though, as the actual section called Bass Rocks on the map was private land, and had mansions on it. I would have driven up anyway, but there were a ton of people out who were already staring at me just for driving around their road. But the house right on the edge was pretty awesome. Imagine living here.

I then drove around to the other end of the beach next to this, called Good Harbor Beach. It was like pretty much every other beach, but because of the inclusion of this rocky area next to it, a little nicer.

 And, because humanity rules, this was in the bushes behind where I took that previous shot. Lovely.

Yes, you're seeing correctly: Fluorescent leopard print bikini bottoms, with STUDS. wow. CLASS.

I quickly was running out of sunlight. This was the first night of the summer where I realized summer was on its way out, and that daylight past 8pm was a thing of the past. I drove around many more crooked bumpy roads to stay alongside the ocean, and it was generally nice. Certain rich areas made me feel like I was in some distant foreign land on the ocean- the cluttered housing, the interesting architecture, the cobblestones and ocean alongside the entire road. Certain other areas just made me feel claustrophobic. But it was generally a pretty nice ride. I grew up in the woods on a lake, so the feelings Phil talked about and the drives through dream scenery with music as the soundtrack- I have that when I'm on back roads in the middle of forests or driving around a lake. The ocean has never really done that for me. To me, the oceanside generally all looks the same, and where a lake has a small town familiarity to me, an ocean is dark, ominous and kind of terrifying in it's grandiosity. To put it less wordy, oceans are huge and can pull you out in them to your death. They're cold, salty, and full of monsters. People get lost in them. Are they beautiful? Absolutely. But I guess because I had no link to oceans other than my Grandfather, I'll probably never experience an ocean like someone who grew up near one would. But if you like oceans or beautiful sea-side towns, I'd definitely recommend this drive. And yes, I listened to Caspian the whole way. 

This was one of the prettier spots. This was either Atlantic Road or Eden Road. Both looked like this. 

Nice stuff.

I blew it though, and ran out of time by driving around random streets trying to get better shots, when really, everything kind of looked the same after awhile. I floored it up to the last landmark, Halibut Point State Park, at the north tip of Rockport. I will be returning here. There is a huge rock quarry right when you walk in which was pretty impressive. Next, the road splits- one way to the beach, and one to "lookout point." I went to lookout point, and was pretty floored. It was dark and I only had about 10 minutes to be there, but it was worth it. You sit on rocks at the top of a hill, overlooking nothing but rocks below and ocean all around you. It's amazing. I sat there, completely alone with the ocean breeze hitting my face and listening to This Will Destroy You on my iphone. It was glorious. What a nice spot. 

yea, it was dark by the time I left. 

According to google images, there is a point somewhere here where you can see the quarry and the ocean in the same view. Rather than have me steal images, just go look for yourself. I will definitely be returning to get that shot.

I then completed the night with a trip back to Nick's Roast Beef. My friend James had texted me earlier when he saw my tweet about being in Beverly. He was house/dogsitting for a friend in Beverly, so I picked him up and we pigged out. Apparently, when you order the chicken finger meal and say "just fries" (instead of onion rings, fries and something else), they just give you a pound of french fries. Good stuff. 

ahhhh beef.

Thanks for the advice on the drive Phil, it was an afternoon well spent.

currently listening to: Radiohead (mix I made that combines the best of their last 4 albums)